The programme for the “Settimane” of 1970 proposes 8 weeks (from the classic Haute Route, to the Dolomites, to the Dauphiné, to the Maurienne) and also, from 1 st May to 9 th May, the fourth extra-European expedition, the “ski-mountaineering Decade to Damavand (5770m) in Iran”. Its “National High Mountain Ski-Mountaineering School” enters its fourth year of activity, with the “introductory ski-mountaineering courses” and the “off-piste technique improvement courses” starting on 22 nd February 1970 in Courmayeur. In the spring-summer of 1969, they involved 66 clients on various itineraries, 7 of whom took part in the second Italian ski-mountaineering expedition to Greenland (15 th June – 8 th July 1969). His main creature, the “Settimane Sci-alpinisitche di Alta Montagna” (High Mountain Ski-Mountaineering Weeks), have become an international reference in the field and during the season they employ, in addition to Toni, 4 guides and several porters. His activity as a mountain guide is intense and continuous, always carried out under the banner of prudence and with great attention to safety: in 24 years of activity, he has never a serious accident. His sports shop in Courmayeur is a point of reference throughout the Alps, both for the products he sells and for Toni's own willingness to advise, listen and discuss with mountaineers stopping by. He is no longer a top mountaineer, but remains a member of the French GHM and the British Alpine Club. (4.1 Vietnam war, moon landing and Piazza Fontana)Īt the beginning of 1970, Toni is 55 years old and he is in the midst of his professional maturity. The Americans succeed in landing on the moon on 21 st July 1969, but the Vietnam War ties up resources and causes much discontent. In Italy, the economic boom brought a strong improvement in lifestyle, leading to the protests of Sixty-eight, until the Piazza Fontana bombing in Milan, on 12th December 1969, which left 17 people dead and 88 injured and marked the beginning of the “anni di piombo” (Years of Lead). If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.The end of the 1960s mark a period of great change and transformation in society. Normal gear for crossing glaciers + a handful of nuts and camming devices. it is important to keep high on the traverse, above the snow fields, because otherwise you have to cross some icy couloirs which tend to channel stones and rocks. From the col you then traverse across and down the South face to the glacier where you started. To reach this head directly down the scree to the col on a route that at times resembles a path. Return to the hut the same way, or via the Plateau that leads to the Col du Sonedon. From the summit of the Grand Combin de Valsorey you can get to the obvious main summit of the Grand Combin in 40mins, allowing 20 mins for the return. Most parties do a combination of the two options.įrom last step a simple ridge leads to the summit which is marked by a wooden cross. Alternatively, one can bypass all of the difficulties on the right by traversing on the South West Face however this is over difficult ground with loose scree slopes. There are moves of II and III, but nothing harder than this. It is possible to climb up on the ridge turning the difficulties on either side. Alternatively continue to the morraine and scree that lies to the right of the couloir and ascend this - there is a rough path all the way to the col.įrom the col there are three rock steps. Branch off left up the obvious couloir that leads to the col du Meitein. Walk up the rocky moraine to the Meitein glacier and move right across it in the direction of the Col du Sonadon. (I refered to the Alpine Club Valias Alps West guide book, Lindsay Griffin, when writing this.)įrom the hut an early start is advisable. The walk to the hut is signposted from Bourg St. Start from the Valsorey hut (3030m, SAC, serves food, tel: 027 787 11 22).
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